This borderland region with Tibet and Himachal Pradesh of India is a canvas of surrealistic magnificence of nature, chiselled out of green valleys and orchards, snow covered mountains, gushing streams… and strewn in between are picturesque habitats of the descendents of ‘Kinners’. The striking spectacle is nothing less than the Garden of Eden.

Kinner from which the region gets its name are the angel demi-gods of the Hindu pantheon. According to Hindu mythology the angels, because of the region’s likeness to heaven, chose it for their blissful gaiety and frolic. Some of them supposedly stayed back and coalesced with the humans, which perhaps is the reason the natives call themselves ‘Kinnauri’ – descendants of Kinners.    

Kinnaur heights remain almost out of bounds for nearly six months, being snow covered. However the remaining six months from May to October is a treat to the senses of the traveller. The NH 22 or the Hindustan-Tibet road from Shimla to Kinnaur 230 km away is a scenic stretch. As you reach to higher elevation after leaving Shimla, the first major tourist point at 64 km from Shimla is Narkanda, the popular ski and winter sports resort in the region. This is the gateway to Kinnaur. From here if the weather is clear, you get the first glimpse of the magnificence lying ahead. From the green valleys in the foreground to the striking expanse of snow covered Himalayan wall on the horizon, the breathtaking spectacle is the first indication of the splendour up ahead.  

River Sutlej with its spectacular surroundings gives company along the route. The next stop would be Rampur Bushahr 140 km from Shimla, the former capital of Bushahr kingdom. Today the town has hardly any attraction however Sarahan, 35 km from Rampur at 7,500 feet is an idyllic location with all the goodies of a perfect eco spot. Further down at Powari 70 km from Rampur the road branches off to Recong Peo on one hand and Sangla Valley [also called the Baspa valley] on the other. It won’t be off the mark to assume that Sangla was perhaps the place chosen by the Kinner angels to engage in their regular frolic on earth. The heavenly beauty here is ubiquitous.

The Sangla valley with river Baspa flowing through it, is enchantment galore at every bend. Splendid meadows, orchards and saffron fields are the colours on the surface while the Kinner Kailash peak dominate the skyline of the valley. Sangla remained out of bounds of non-Kinnauris until 1992 because of inner line security at this border district with Tibet. Tucked away in the craggy folds of the Himalayas, Sangla is a land shrouded in mystery that few people know about. Fewer still have crossed this way, for it has been one of the world’s undiscovered hidden Shangri-La for thousands of years.

The Sangla village is located on the slope of the hills with Kinnauri homes constructed in rows one above the other. As you stroll around the village you could possibly come across a wedding procession or a religious parade with the locals attired in colourful ethnic costumes and Kinnauri men and women singing folk songs to the tune of their typical musical instruments, seeped in unencumbered merriment.

Kinnaur is a land of temples constructed in stones and woodwork. A few of the larger ones are magnificent work of art. The intricate woodwork here is bound to make the spectator salute the creator. One significant one that is in the vicinity of Sangla is the Kamru Fort, an impressive fortress-style temple dedicated to the goddess Kali.

The Sangla visit alone could be fulfilling if one is constrained for time. Nevertheless if wanderlust itch cajoles the soul then a visit to Chitkul 28 km from Sangla, the last village in the heights of the valley at 11,300 ft. could add to feel of the stupendous with its alpine meadows and surrounding snow peaks. There is a luxury camp resort in the area on the banks of Baspa where on can engage in a stimulating sojourn with adventure sports and angling. On way to Chikul stop over at Rakcham 13 km away from Sangla, to relish the scenic beauty of the valley from a height of 9,500 ft. Rakchham literary means stone bridge.  ‘Rak’ is stone and ‘Chham’ is bridge in Kinnauri.

If your wanderlust craves for more move on to Recong Peo through Powari from where you entered the Sangla valley. Recong is 7 km from Powari and is the district headquarters of Kinnaur. At an altitude of 8,800 ft. it is a reasonably large and busy town.

Kothi village also called Koshtampi, 3 km from Recong provides a wonderful study of the ethnic lifestyle and customs of Kinnaur. The Chandika Devi temple showcasing exquisite architectural style, workmanship and the golden deity in the sanctum sanctorum is a piece of marvel that strikes with awe in the backdrop of the wonderful hill surroundings.

Kalpa about 14 km from Recong Reo at 9,700 ft. is a significant high altitude village in the region. For the tourist it offers a spectacular view of Kinner Kailash range across the river.  

Kinnaur is certainly the place off the beaten track that one should consider for a vacation in very mystic yet enjoyable ethnic surroundings.

About the author: Gautam Chatterjea is a travel consultant, planner and organiser of exotic holidays. He can be reached at gautamchatterjea@hotmail.com To know more on Himalayan destinations visit http://www.indiadreamtours.com/himalayas.html

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